Karnak and the King’s Head

…more photos from the hostel

Loads of photos! Luxor Temple and Felucca on the Nile

Ruins, Bananas, Football

Still based in the small, but busy east bank of Luxor. We’ve been to Luxor Temple and Karnak here over the last few days and been mightily impressed by both. It’s impossible to feel anything other than awe and insignificance wandering around these huge pillars and statues built around 4000 years ago. And it’s amazing to think all of this phenomenal work was going on when the Irish were probably just getting to grips with fire. Or walking. Or discovering whiskey.

The two sites were the most enjoyable things we’ve done so far and, we thought, more remarkable than the pyramids (although we didn’t actually go inside them). Both sites are pretty ruined but what’s left does give you a tantalising glimpse into the full splendour and power of the temples. Looking at these great pillars (134 in one area), under the blue sky, with the distinctive hills of the Valley of the Kings behind you, would could almost transport yourself  back in time and imagine the halls filled with the noise and bustle of ancient Egypt.

After Luxor Temple we got a feluca down the Nile to Banana Island. The island itself, where they grow (surprise, surprise) bananas was pretty nondescript. When you’ve seen one banana tree you’ve seen them all really. It was quite enjoyable to watch a group of French tourists pose for pictures for one another eating bananas- God knows what their long suffering friends and relatives back home will think when confronted with several dozen pictures of Pierre er…eating a banana. They also provide a big plate of bananas at the end of the short walk around the island but since noone can eat more than two or three in one sitting, this is also rather pointless. The highlight of the whole thing was the actual boat trip there and back which was gloriously languid and calm and beautiful. It was fascinating seeing people working and living along the very banks of the river, as they must have done for thousands of years. We also had the whole boat to ourselves apart from the owner who was manning it, although I did help out by standing at the front and pulling some strings while saying words like ‘starboard’ and ‘hull.’ Frankly, I’m not sure we would have made it back had I not been there.

Last night we braved a visit to Ye Olde English Pub to watch the England – Egypt match on TV. (In the words of our Lonely Planet guide; “darts and pool just feel plain wrong to us in this heat..!”) We went with a couple of guys we’d  met from the hostel- as expected the roof terrace is ideal for meeting other travellers and getting advice from them. When Aaron, a backpacker from Devon, England, was telling us the best hostels in Jordan, Syria and Turkey, it almost felt like someone was giving us the cheats for a computer game or answers for an exam! We went to the pub with Aaron and his compatriot, Ben from London and with each bottle of beer went our chances of getting up early today to see the Valley of the Kings. Egypt took an early lead but the excitement in the pub (filled with Egyptians) dissipated when England took control and the end was played out with the result in no doubt.

So, a nice quiet day today , hopefully involving the Mummification Museum and a couple of cafes, Valley of the Kings tomorrow, and back up to Cairo again at the weekend. Pics to follow!

Bob Marley Hostel, Luxor